- 1. This guide is primarily meant as an alternative to high-tech. I do my best to explain aquatic chemistry in as simple of terms possible so those with little or no chemistry background need not be frustrated.
- 2. It is valuable to know something about each of the individual plants you choose to keep. To include this information in my guide would have changed the format from a guide to a book. Get any plant book available before you start.
- 3. There is a law of nature at work, that if understood from the onset makes a low-tech system easier to understand. Simply put, plants are producers and animals (including humans and fish) are consumers. In other words the animal kingdom is absolutely dependent on the plant kingdom for survival. In a low-tech system in particular, that law should dominate your thinking. The needs of the plants are given priority over the fish.
- 4. Heavily planted tanks work much better than lightly planted aquariums and can handle a larger fish load. They also look better.
- 5. Sometimes algae can be a little frustrating in the beginning. I don't think it's possible to eliminate all algae, but plant tanks age like fine wine and will reach a point where it requires little combat.
- 6. There are many ways to set up aquariums. Most work, if you follow instructions. My system offers some alternatives in equipment and even includes how to do a no-tech aquarium. No-tech is not my system of choice but it's fun, obviously cheap and worth a try when your confidence is up. I encourage experimentation with this system and if you come up with improvements that maintain the low-tech approach, I hope you will send me your findings.
- 7. It's my opinion that plants are easier to keep than fish. They are however, less forgiving if their basic needs are not met. Pay particular attention to the following topics; lighting, CO2 conservation (filters), fertilization and especially iron, substrate and pH.
- 1. The primary reason for a light for a fish tank is to better view and enhance the color of the fish and tank decor. The lighting is of little value to the fish, especially since fish have no eyelids and can really only rest in total darkness. Proper lighting (intensity, duration, color spectrum) is the most important function to a plant tank.
- 2. Both fish and plants produce CO2. Plants require it, fish have no use for it.
- 3. Only plants produce oxygen that both fish and plants require. Fish can only consume oxygen.
- 4. Fish always degrade the water quality and the higher the fish load the faster it degrades the water. Healthy plants always increase water quality.
- 5. In "fish tanks" the filter is essential. In low-tech tanks, most filters do more harm than good.
- 6. Fish could care less about their substrate (gravel), but it's very important for many plants.
- 7. In a fish tank, the fish are dependent on a filter for water quality, in a low-tech planted aquarium the fish are dependent on the plants.
- 8. As a general rule a newly set up fish aquarium can be the most difficult time because you have to deal with establishing bacteria to control the water quality. This is often called "The New Tank Syndrome". Low- Tech tanks are equally critical and sometimes frustrating in the beginning but the primary concern is algae control. Algae control, at least, is far less dangerous than nitrogen control.
- a. Every inch the light is raised above the water line, a great deal of light is lost.
- b. The formula should be increased some on tanks higher or deeper than 20".
- c. Cloudy water reduces light.
- d. Fluorescent light tubes lose much intensity in a short period of time (under 6 mos.). Either starting wattage should be increased or bulbs should be changed every 6- 8 mos.
- e. Dirty bulbs retard light.
- f. Most plastic and glass covers deplete the UV waves plants like. The biggest killer of all is when these covers collect condensation, mineral stains, and just plain dirt.
- a. Fluorescent Lighting. The standard for low-tech plant tanks is likely to be the newer double bulb fluorescent fixtures. I mentioned before that I prefer the strip light as opposed to the full-hood to keep the top as open as possible. This is a good looking hood and allows for the use of two different bulbs. (UPDATE) You can also use less expensive hardware store fixtures if you are creative at figuring out how to mount them. (FINISHED)
- Incandescent Lighting I have never had anything good to say about incandescent (screw-in bulbs) lighting for aquariums. That opinion is still negative for those hoods with the little refrigerator bulbs. They are hot, they are not bright enough even for good viewing of the fish and they trap the heat over the water.
- c. Sun lighting.
Low-Tech Natural Aquarium Guide
By Dan S. Quackenbush for "Freshwater and Marine Aquarium" magazine
Part 1 (Vol. 20 #2) February 1997
Revised for WWW and includes updates not in the original version.
Contents:
1. Introduction
2. Mother Nature's Filter
3. Differences in Low Tech verses Hi Tech
4. Zone 1
5. Zone 2
.
Given the right conditions for either plant tanks (with fish) or the traditional fish tank (plantless) of today, it's my opinion that the plant tank is easier, much better looking and generally costs less to set up. Based on the preponderance of literature and hearsay, I suspect those currently considering a planted tank could easily get the impression that to succeed requires high-tech equipment or that I'm crazy.
The use of high-tech systems does not bother me. What does bother me is the cost of such a system. The perception of high-tech being the only way to go, if believed, eliminates almost all kids, tightly budgeted school or family projects as well as the vast majority of us grown up kids. Also missing for beginners is an alternative method that is easy to understand and that works. This is what prompted me to write this guide for FAMA magazine.
A LITTLE PREFACING
MOTHER NATURE'S FILTER
As impressive as the plants may look, I am even more impressed by the water quality they produce. I seldom see a clamped fin or shimmy in the live bearers. Egg layers that often pale in traditional fish tanks, always seem to show there best colors in the planted aquarium. The fry of live bearers grow as fast they did in my pools on my fish farm. The swimming of the fish is very natural and pleasing. Live bears in particular, have a fondness for death leaps out of the aquarium and even though I have an open top, this seldom happens. All this indicates a high degree of water quality which is seldom imitated in conventional, heavily filtered aquariums.
Comparing a plant to a plastic filter, mechanically, the filter wins the contest because plants can't remove any waste from the aquarium. They can, however, convert much of this waste to plant food.
Most experts would agree that biological filtering (using aerobic bacteria) is the most important means of maintaining water quality in the fish tank. The biological filter requires that the toxins produced by fish waste and excess food be broken down in stages via the nitrogen cycle. For new hobbyists, this means that different types of bacteria must break down deadly ammonia (or ammonium) produced in the decay of the waste, to a slightly less toxic nitrite and finally the least toxic nitrate. Plants use the same bacteria system. The roots and base of a plant are loaded with good guy bacteria and, in fact, plants are often used to start (seed) new aquariums. But, plants have other benefits not found in filters. Plants love ammonia and consume large quantities with no need to wait for it to be broken down by bacteria. Typical biological filters can't break down waste beyond nitrates, so this last by-product tends to accumulate and can become deadly at high levels. Plants, under certain conditions can consume nitrates. Many aquariums also have problems with excess phosphate that filters can't remove. Plants can, and do, remove substantial amounts of phosphate from the water.
Aesthetically, plants certainly look a whole lot better than any filter design I have seen to date. In retrospect, I guess it's not so surprising; after all, Mother Nature has had millions of years to perfect her methods. Plastic filters have not even been around a century.
THE NATURAL AQUARIUM OR WHAT'S IT CALLED
We are used to the term "fish tank" as the typical set-up in this country that supports fish, and is usually plant less. The "plant tank" does not require fish but usually has them. Aquariums with emphasis on plants have often been called Dutch, Balanced, Natural, Green or simply Planted.
It has quickly become apparent that these terms often imply different, but specific meaning to different hobbyists. Consequently, I have changed the terms to be more specific to this article. I define as follows; "High-Tech" uses all of the most expensive equipment known to God or man, "Mid-Tech" uses some High-Tech or do-it-yourself versions of High-Tech equipment, "Low-Tech" which uses the cheapest possible products that will maintain healthy plants, "No-Tech" which is a complete absence of any product that plugs into a wall socket. This guide is intended to advance the later two methods.
GENERAL OVERVIEW OF THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PLANTED AND FISH (UNPLANTED) TANKS.
The easiest way for me to describe the dynamics of a planted tank and particularly low-tech, is by dividing the aquarium into zones.
ZONE 1- ATMOSPHERE (GAS & LIGHT)
A. Gas- Oxygen and carbon dioxide (CO2)
In the fish tank, Zone 1, is the primary source of oxygen brought into the aquarium by moving the water surface (Zone 2). The better the water surface movement, generally created by the filter, the greater the amount of oxygen brought into the water column ( Zone 3). Regardless of the type of filter, almost all are excellent at bringing in oxygen. The downside is, they are equally adept at removing CO2 that the plants require for growth. Even a filter that bubbles so slowly you can count the bubbles, will drive out most of the CO2 at the surface. You get the same result as shaking a carbonated drink, the only difference is the CO2 is not under pressure in an aquarium, so you won't see an aquarium fizz when you churn the water.
Some plants are truly aquatic and must live underwater (submersed) or would die if removed. The majority of aquarium plants are actually amphibious. This means they spend some time out of water or at least above the water (emersed). For those plants that will grow out of water, I encourage, as they have a much larger pool of CO2 in the atmosphere (air). Needless to say this won't work if you are using a full hood. This open (topped) aquarium has one downside. That is you get a lot of evaporation. In my case, at least, that does insure some partial change with new water.
B. Respiration & Photosynthesis
Proper light is easily the number one priority of any planted aquarium.
Amongst the many specialized cells plants have, 2 types are helpful to have a little knowledge about.
1. One type of cell operates 24 hr. a day and uses oxygen and gives off CO2 as a gas. This process is referred to as respiration. CO2 in the form of gas and in adequate amounts is essential for healthy plant growth. The animal kingdom also respires so in our aquarium all our non- plant critters are also adding a bit of CO2 to the water.
2. The second type of specialized cell is the result of chlorophyll pigments in some cells found in the leaves. These cells are activated only in the presence of light and have the unique ability to use CO2 and produce oxygen. This process is called photosynthesis. The animal kingdom can't produce oxygen, only consume it. The gas, oxygen, is released through special cells called stomata, usually found on the bottom side of the leaves. In a low-tech planted aquarium enough of both gases can be produced to sustain the health of both plants and fish. The trick in low-tech is learning how to conserve the CO2.
Light powers the tank through photosynthesis which in turn supports all the life in the aquarium.
C. The 3 components of light are DURATION, COLOR, INTENSITY
Each of the 3 components affects increased or inhibited plant growth.
1. Duration (photo period)
The duration of time the aquarium is lit is often referred to as the photo period. For most aquatic plants the photo period should be 10-12 hr. per day. Using a light more than 12 hr. will not compensate for weak lighting nor will it produce better growth. In a low-tech aquarium darkness is nearly as critical as the photo period. This is the time plants can build up the CO2 supply in the water they will need the following day. There also seems to be more growth at night.
For under $10.00 you can get a light timer. I consider this one of best investments for your aquarium.
2. The color (spectrum) of light
Both fluorescent and incandescent bulbs come in a wide variety of wavelengths, or perhaps easier to understand, color spectrum. Different bulbs are made for different colors that range in order from the color violet, blue, yellow, orange to red.
Plants absorb different colors with different results. For most plants, the orange-red spectrum tends to promote upward growth and violet-blue tends to cause compact bushy low growth (and alga). Most of the yellow and green spectrum, which makes up a lot of the spectrum in most fluorescent bulbs, is reflected by green plants instead of absorbed. The consequence being, the plants use very little of this spectrum. Most bulbs carry varying amounts of all the colors, but those that are heavy in red and to a lesser extent blue, are best.
Such brand name terms as sun, full spectrum, and day should all work.
Some of the bulbs I use are GE "Sunshine", GE "Plant & Aquarium" and the Vita Lite. I never use Actinic.
3. Light intensity (brightness).
Of the 3 components, intensity is probably the most critical. It could be argued that there is a point of too much light and the results being more CO2 and fertilizers needed as well as increased maintenance in keeping the plants trimmed. For low-tech lighting systems this is unlikely. In fact, just getting to the minimum lighting intensity for plants is a big increase over traditional fish tanks. I should also point out that minimum is adequate for many plants but not optimum for most.
4. Rule of thumb
I find most rule of thumb ideas somewhat useless as they pertain to aquariums. Particularly, how often and how much water to change and how many fish per gallon of water.
Nevertheless, there is a rule of thumb for light requirements that I like if you understand its weakness, which I explain. The rule of thumb is 2-5 watts of light per gallon of water. The closer to 5 watts the better. Those watts are for ideal conditions. Pitfalls are:
If you want to use covers between the bulbs and the water, use the 5 watt per gallon formula as a minimum.
* Breaking the law. There was a long period of time that light hoods were sold without any covers. Our ever vigilant government changed all that and decided we must have covers. Although this diminished the viewing some, it had no effect on the fish, so no one cared much, except for a few plant lovers.
I would never suggest you break the law, but I can tell you what I do with the covers. I probably risk a late night knock on the door from the "light police", but my light covers hit the garbage can before the light is placed on the aquarium.
If you don't mind spending a little more money, your fluorescent light can be rigged with waterproof end caps.
5. Three choices for low-tech lighting.
The biggest draw back to fluorescent lighting is
often getting enough lighting intensity. For smaller aquariums such as a 20 gallon high,
the dual bulbs are just adequate. The min. watts for a 20 gal. is 40 (2 watts X 20 gal.=40
w). Since the dual light fixture holds 2, 20 watt bulbs, you barely have enough light. A
55 gal. would require a min. of 110 Watts. Standard 55 gallons take 48", 40 watt
bulbs, but 2 of those bulbs would only give you 80 watts. At this point you have do have
some options. You can choose plants that don't require as much light such as Anubias, Java
Fern, and Cryptocorynes. You can get an additional single bulb strip to get you to the
min. or a second dual would be even better for most plants. You could also see my next
topic.
However, there are other fixtures (not made for aquariums) available that have given me a total new respect for incandescent. I now use standard and clear household bulbs on some of my aquariums.
There are several advantages to these bulbs. These bulbs seem to have some red in them. Secondly, they are cheap to set- up. Another nice thing is that they don't lose much intensity over time, they just burn out and you replace them.
There is also a downside. Fixtures that use light bulbs are not made for aquariums. This means you must use desk lamps, pole lamps or come up with other creative ways to get the bulbs near the water. As the pauper prince of low-tech aquariums, my favorite is the old clamp on metal shop light. This will drive the light police crazy, but for under $10.00 I can get enough light to grow most plants in a 20 gal. aquarium
A second problem with incandescent is big time, first degree, burn your hand heat. My first concern when trying these bulbs was wondering how long it would take to bring my aquarium water to a full boil. Interestingly, there is very minimal water warming. Unlike aquarium hoods that tend to trap the heat near the water, the lamps can be mounted on an angle and since heat rises quickly the angle prevents the heat from being trapped. I have not had a problem overheating the water even burning the light 12 hr.. a day.
Other potential problems are not as readily apparent
when you turn on the lights. If the light is not carefully mounted this kind of heat can
easily melt the plastic aquarium rim and the back of your hood. For this reason I pretty
much stick to 65 watt bulbs if there is also a strip light.
Many plants like to grow above the water line
(emersed). Naturally, they head right for the bulb, which is a big mistake. Keep those
types of plants on the opposite side of the bulb, and you should be OK.
Much of the wattage of incandescent is lost in heat
as opposed to light so it takes more watts to operate than fluorescent. Although, it's a
cheap set-up to start, in the long run you will lose this advantage in your power bill.
Ideally, these are best suited as a starter light until you are hooked on plants.
Then bite the bullet and invest in fluorescent.
I have helped perpetuate the myth that you should never locate your aquarium by a window and especially a southern window ( if you live north of the equator). The logic was that it created too much temperature fluctuation and increased algae. It would not surprise me if this mis-information was started by a lighting company. The truth is, the temperature change is slow and the fish will adjust to it with no trouble. It takes more than just light to get alga. If the tank conditions are not right any light will increase alga.
Light from a southern window will out do the highest price lighting known for an aquarium. Depending on how much you get, it could even be to much. Reducing the sun light with partial (tape strips) or a total background on the back and or sides is much cheaper and easier than upgrading to high-tech lighting. Sun light also produces a very pleasing aquarium to look at.
East and west windows also work but for a shorter period of time.
I might point out, if you plan to do a notch plant tank, a southern window is critical. Even though I have a southern window I still use a small light. the reason is you will probably never get 10 hours of solid light. There are times of the year the sun will be over your home, below tree lines, overhangs or other buildings. You also have gray or rainy days. By putting even a little light on a timer I can extend the day to 12 hours for evening viewing.
ZONE 2- THE AIR-WATER INTERFACE.
The separation of the water world from the atmosphere is an interesting place especially for the gas exchange required in a fish tank. But I am advocating a low-tech system in which I consider it imperative that the water surface is not disturbed for fear of losing precious CO2 held in the water column. Therefore, this zone is pretty dull.
There is one noteworthy area here. Most pollutants added to, or created in, an aquarium tend to migrate to the surface. Most of it's not visible. There are often by-products that are visible and produce what is often termed "surface scum". This is usually more prominent in low-tech because it's not being churned into the water column by vigorous filter action. The 3 most common types of scum I have observed are undissolved minerals (usually white), oil slicks from either some fish foods or unwashed hands and, on occasion powdery looking green scum. I suspect the later is minerals coated by alga.
The best way to check for scum is to look upward through the front glass. Unless excessive, scum doesn't appear to hurt anything in a low-tech tank. Nevertheless, I have never seen good looking scum so I try to remove it via some surface water changes.
SEE BELOW TO GET TO PART 2
IRONY IS...
Being a die-hard capitalist, I certainly don't fault the methods of high-tech companies. The irony is, they are all but mandating a system that is high cost, high maintenance and beyond the means of the vast majority. They even charge a healthy price for most of their propaganda. They are making enough profit to support many web sites without a nick in their budget.
My alternative guide to this, saves you enough time & money to go on 2 week cruise and the information is free. It's not likely many aquatic mfg.. will support this page so I have ruled out that possibility along with charitable donations.
It takes money to manage a web page and answer the many e-mail questions, not to mention a lot of time. The only way I am left to support this site is by the sale of (here comes an advertisement), the finest plants in the USA at the best possible prices! Or how about this "guilt" pitch- Future generation of beginners wanting some precious free help are dependent on you! Check out my Price List
Part 2 topics include- pH, Conserving CO2 (proper filtering), Fertilizing including iron, Substrates, Control of alga, Aquascaping.
CLICK HERE TO GET TO PART 2 OF THE GUIDE.
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Dan Quackenbush
90 Bruce Lane
Covington, Georgia 30014
DQAllWet@Avana.net